The iceman sleepeth

All sorts of rationalisation has been going on as to why we aren't climbing today. "It's warmed up, tomorrow will be colder". "We need to conserve energy for the big one tomorrow" etc. Truth be told, we're wasted. Nick's gone back to bed.

Hattavarri Prime

Aadne emailed to say he thinks no-one's climbed the icefall we did. Nick's first new route! He's named it Hattavarri Prime, after the mountain it's on.

An arctic day high in Tamokdalen

We left the road heading northwest, snowshoes crumping in the snow as we walked up through birch woods for 45 minutes. At one point, as I waited for Nick, what looked like a Marsh tit flew up and sat on a branch five feet away, bold as brass, hoping for tastier food than the lichen or moss it had been taking off the birch trunks.

As we rose above the treeline a wide basin came into view surrounded by mountains. On the northwest side of the basin were 4 fine icefalls. Our approach involved a steep snow traverse high above a frozen lake, scary not so much for avalanche potential but because a mis-step would have led to a steep and very long slide down to the lake. It took 3 hours to reach the base of the climb from the car, most of it on the traverse.

We chose the second climb on the left, the steepest. It turned out to be 90m WI5, the second pitch just off-vertical for 50 metres. Another cracking lead by Nick, and a superb climb.
Thanks Aadne!

Dinner is chicken & pesto pasta with cheese, salami and veg, an easy favourite of this trip.
Nick has just remarked, "my head and heart want to climb tomorrow, but my body isn't willing." Let's see. It was a big day.

New routing?

Today we are going to follow a tip about ice hidden away a couple of kilometres from the road in Tamokdalen. The tip came from Aadne, a friend of Kjetil who lives and climbs locally. Apparently a lot of the ice there has never seen an ice axe. Exciting!

Simpletons climb at Kafjord

We had an "off day" today. We weren't engaged mentally and everything was harder work than it should have been. No disasters though, and in the end Nick led a steep 60m WI5, so all was not lost. The climb is to the left of the first climb of the trip in Kafjord.








Here's a clip from today.

Simpletons at Kafjord from Jim on Vimeo.

The moon's out so we may see the Northern Lights tonight. Toby emailed to say he saw them 3 nights running in Spansdalen!
Red Thai chicken curry for supper.

The cathedral climb

We got up at 05:30 feeling refreshed from our rest day and lots of sleep. The plan was to climb an icefall high on the escarpment by Kvalvik, and we were expecting a long, steep approach. In the event the approach wasn't as tough as expected - we reached the ice in an hour and a half. We could have slept in!

There was evidence of another climbing party before us: snowshoe tracks on the approach and V-threads in the ice. But in 16 days we still haven't seen any other climbers.

The icefall is about 30m wide at its base, tapering with height. The first 2 pitches gave excellent climbing past some strange ice formations:

Here's Nick belayed in an ice cave at the top of the 2nd pitch.

Exiting the cave and climbing up past it was scary. The ice was chandeliered and so didn't offer Nick any icescrew placements for a good few metres. It involved stepping up on small mushroom formations which didn't feel too secure either. It was another impressive lead by Nick. Further up the 3rd pitch Nick's axe broke through to the stream running underneath, which burst out and poured down the ice - and onto me as I followed.

It was another fine climb, a 170m WI4+/WI5. Approaching the top:

A rest day

We woke up to the news from Japan. Truly terrible.

This morning we both felt a bit jaded after 8 days climbing on the trot and so decided to have a rest day. Not much to report. I cooked bacon and eggs (thanks for the bacon you left, Toby, delicious!) then after breakfast we went back to bed and slept until noon.

Stein-Are popped in for a chat this afternoon. He and his wife are over visiting his dad for the weekend. He fired up the sauna for us, a fine woodburner-heated one. He said it's traditional to swim in the river afterwards, but we copped out and had cold showers instead.

Tonight's dinner was baked salmon with new potatoes, carrots, broccoli, cauliflower and Lofoten fiskesaus (white fish sauce). We'll be in bed by 21:30: we're planning to climb a big line high on an escarpment across the fjord, and need to be up early.

It's a cold clear night, but still there's no sign of the aurora borealis. Nick said it could been seen from Aberdeen in the last few days. Typical.

Domestic life at Cabin 7

Domestic life at Cabin 7 from Jim on Vimeo.

Gullyvers Reisen

We woke up to a cold, clear and sunny day. The salmon on the porch was still frozen solid (there is no freezer compartment in the fridge so we'd hung it on the washing line).

On the drive north to Kafjord a large bird flew in front of the car. At first we both thought it was a crow but then we saw it was much bigger - it had a 6-8 foot wingspan. It was a sea eagle. It turned its head to look down at us as it flew.

Further along the fjord, fish were being dried on large wooden frames.

We parked at the end of the road at Kafjord and walked in to the foot of the climb we'd run away from last Friday, Gullyvers Reisen, a 130m WI5.

Nick led both pitches. The first had a vertical, almost overhanging section. The second was a long steep climb up the back of a deep cleft. In contrast with the soft, wet ice on yesterday's climb, the ice today was almost like glass - smooth, hard and polished. I kept having to duck as ice dislodged by Nick whizzed down towards me, rebounding alternately off the rock wall to the left and the ice wall to the right.

For the first time this trip we saw evidence of other climbers - cord left in abolokovs by a party asbeiling off. There wasn't an abolokov at the top of the climb though, so Nick put one in:

On the drive back to the cabin the views were stunning. The snow on the mountains across the fjord was blue in shadow except where their tops were picked out in orange by the setting sun, and the sky above was pink. The air was so clear that you could see the mountains tens of miles north at the head of the fjord. There was a feeling of immense space.

Sunshine in Signaldalen

Here's footage of our exploits yesterday:

Signaldalen from Jim on Vimeo.

Soppingfossen

Toby, Jody and Earendel left this morning for Spansdalen. We enjoyed having them stay. (Earendel didn't actually stay with us - he camped down by the fjord. Hardy!)

While they were trying to fit all their stuff into Earendel's VW, Nick and I left and drove back to Signaldalen. We parked where the road crosses the river and set off to walk in to what looked like a good steep climb with a long pillar on the north side of the valley. On the approach we had to skirt up the sides of the gully to avoid big holes in the ice full of water from the stream. The sun was out for a change. The only sounds were of running water and our snowshoes breaking through the snow crust as we plodded upward.

I led the first easy pitch up a couple of steps, then waded through deep snow up to the base of the main pillar and belayed. Nick then set off to climb the main event, a slightly off-vertical 30m pillar, as I held the ropes gloveless in the warm sunshine.

A drawback of the warmth and sun was that the pillar was streaming water, and the ice wasn't great for placing ice screws. Nick shouted with relief when eventually he was able to place a good screw. He was drenched by the time he arrived at the belay, and shouted down to advise wearing my waterproof shell when I followed.

From the belay at the top of the pillar I struggled on upwards through waist deep snow until we were on an easy-enough angled slope to put on the snowshoes and bag the ropes. There followed an epic descent through trees, the snowcrust holding our weight sometimes but more often breaking so we sank to our knees or deeper.

Finally we reached a track and a man approached on a skidoo. He was curious as to what we were up to. When Nick told him he said, "that's a little bit crazy".

The Brown Smear

Here's footage of Nick leading, and me following yesterday's first climb.
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Brown Smear from Jim on Vimeo.

Brown Smear, and a reccie for ice

The moose hash was very tasty indeed. Moose meat tastes like slightly gamey beef. We had moose and cheese sandwiches too, and Toby made salad on the side. Normally I eat healthily but I'm afraid this was probably the first salad I've ever eaten on a climbing trip.

Today we drove south towards Hatteng and parked by the side of the fjord where we'd seen a yellowy-brown ice pillar. It turned out to be a 32m WI4. Nick despatched it in short order.

We then joined Toby, Jody and Earendel to play on a wide, fat 40m WI3 a few hundred metres south. Climbing equipment manufacturers send Toby samples of their gear to test and review. Here's Toby giving some new ropes a good testing!

It seemed strange being at a crag with other people. One of the striking things about this trip is that we have seen no other climbers at all, not a single one in 10 days of climbing on great ice in fantastic surroundings.

We then decided to explore Kitdalen and Signaldalen valleys, accessed from Hatteng at the south end of the fjord. We found a good-looking multipitch ?WI4 at the end of Kitdalen valley, and so many icefalls in Signaldalen valley that we lost count. Signaldalen is higher and feels remote, with impressive mountains at each end.

The sun came out today and the skies are clear now. We may see the Northern Lights yet.

Melting ice, and moose hash

We woke up later than usual (after 7!) to find that there was no electricity in the cabin. I rang Stein-Are's dad and he popped round, cheerful and smiling as ever, to say he'd sort it out. Luckily Jody found that the kitchen block still had power so we were able to brew tea. Phew.

We drove up to Kafjord again, had a closer look at a couple of promising-looking lines, but didn't fancy the steep walk-in after yesterday's slog, so we drove back towards Skibotn again until we saw a straightforward-looking roadside ice crag.

It was my turn to lead. It turned out to be a 60m WI3 with a steep step to start with. A longer, vertical final step would have made it WI4 but I wimped out and chose an easier line to the side. My confidence isn't there yet.

As I type Jody is cooking Moose hash. He knows someone who hunts, then arranges to have some of the moose meat canned. Moose can weigh 700kg so one of them would fill quite a few tins. He's mixing the meat up with mashed potatoes. It smells good!

Roadside my a***

Toby, Jody and Earendel joined us at the cabin at first light, looking only slightly worn after an epic 17 hour non-stop drive from Helsinki. They're here for 3 nights before heading south to Spansdalen. Nice lads.

After eating our standard muesli/banana breakfast and making our standard cheese and salami sandwiches (we packed our gear last night - yey!), we set off north again to have a look at Gehsteig, a WI5+ graded climb next to a climb called Roadside.

As it turned out, although the climb is visible from the road up on the hillside, getting to it involved a two and a half hour slog uphill through deep snow between boulders and trees. Here's Nick with the end in sight.

Nick then did probably the best leading I've ever seen him do, up a long, sustained vertical section on the first pitch and finishing up a pillar on the second pitch, which boomed as we placed our axes.

Here Nick is (click to see him) towards the top of the first pitch.

After abseiling off in one, the journey back down to the car took only 25 minutes. We arrived tired but satisfied and buzzing after a top day.